Welcome Aboard,
Hope you will find some of the following useful.
The first job you need to tackle is to READ, a lot. Be patient.
There is so much to learn and it's going to take some time to absorb it all.
It takes years, literally, to become a good machinist. Don't get frustrated
if something seems difficult, it'll come to you eventually. Hobby CNC requires
you to become familiar with machining, designing, electrical, programming and
computer skills to name a few. Oh, and get ready to spend a lot of money too.
You don't have to spend it all upfront to get started, you'll have years to add
to your shop. You can though, make your money back and then some if you make
something with your mill that customers want.

New to Machining in General?

Don't know what chip load or climb milling are? You'll need to start with the basics.
Take a class at your local VoTech or Community College if you can, the experience will be invaluable. Nothing like learning by doing.
If classes aren't possible, start by watching all ten MIT Machine Shop videos. They will give you a great overview of many of the machines
used in a typical shop and how to safely use them.
http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/142-machine-shop-1
Little Machine Shop has a great selection of books and videos to help as well.
Basic Machining Reference Handbook
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1735&category=993665105
Machine Shop Basics
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3129&category=993665105
Machine Shop Essentials: Questions & Answers
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2465&category=993665105
You can also rent DVD's from Smartflix.com that cover milling, turning CNC and other subjects.
http://smartflix.com/store/category/115/Metalworking

New to CNC?

CNC is cool but it's not magic. YOU have to know how to machine a part before you can tell the software how to do it.
Refer to Bob Warfields CNC Dictionary to get a leg up before attempting to jump into CNC.
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCDictionary.htm
Learn what G-Code is and what each code does. CAM software (Computer Aided Manufacturing) will make life easier but
you still must learn the codes so that you can edit or write your programs.
The CNC Programming Handbook, Third Edition by Peter Smid is a great comprehensive guide.
http://www.amazon.com/Programming-Handbook-Third-Peter-Smid/dp/0831133473/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1235881817&sr=1-1
CNCInformation.com has an e-course you can sign up for free to learn the basics of CNC.
http://www.cncinformation.com/SP1.htm
As mentioned, CAM software is very beneficial, almost mandatory for some parts.
CAD (Computer Aided Drafting) is used to design your part and usually outputs a full scale dxf file that most CAM programs can use to
generate a toolpath (g-code) to machine your part. Some software is packaged as CAD/CAM and can do it all at once.
There are MANY to choose from that range from FREE to tens of thousands of dollars.
Hobbyist don't need the capabilities of the high end programs. I have links to several programs that I've tried that are either free or
very reasonable at less than $1000, some very fine programs are only a few hundred.
I'd suggest you download and try them all, most are free to Try before you Buy.
It's important to pick a program that makes sense to YOU and not force yourself into using something that others find appealing.
Install the program and run though a couple of the tutorials that are either included with the software or available for download from their site.
http://www.hossmachine.info/links.html
Once you find something you like, you can get help, tips or samples from forums on Yahoo.com or CNCZone.com
CAD software forum
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=-1&f=404
CAM software forum
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=-1&f=5

Looking For Your First Machine?

Don't rush out and buy a machine that's "On Sale", chances are you'll regret it later.
You need to have a handle on what type and size of parts that you're likely to make to make
an "informed" decision. The hobby will quickly turn sour if your machine cant "cut it".
Pay heed to those that have "been there, done that". There's nothing useful to be gained by
repeating someone else's mistakes. If you have an initial budget limit to jump into the hobby,
spend as much as you can on the machine. You will spend the rest of your life buying tooling,
so don't scrimp on the machine to get extra tools to start. A vise, clamping kit, a pair of calipers
and a small selection of cutting tools is all you need to start. Some companies include these with the machine anyway.
When the time comes to add more tooling, don't scrimp here either. A well made tool will last for years and years.
Measuring equipment is one place where you should spend more of your cash.
Your parts will only be as good as the tools you use to measure them.
High quality manufacturers such as Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo won't let you down.
http://www.starrett.com/
http://www.brownandsharpe.com/
http://www.mitutoyo.com/
I told you this hobby is not cheap.
Reading thorough reviews will also give a great incite into the machine of interest.
Minimill reviews
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Main/mini-mill.htm
Minilathe reviews
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm

You Have the Machine, Now What?

You have your new machine and want to start making chips. Take some pics now,
it will never look this good again. Chances are your machine arrived by truck in a crate.
The Minimill review will give you some good pointers for unpacking, cleanup and accessories.
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/Homier/Homier_mill_p1.htm
Also be sure to completely read thru your user manual which are often available for download as pdf
from the sellers website.
Once you have the machine in it's home, it's almost time to get it dirty.
If you are using it manually, you can start in on the gib adjustment procedure.
This is covered in most manuals but you can read about it in the LMS Minimill Users Guide page 14.
http://littlemachineshop.com/info/MiniMillUsersGuide.pdf
Next you'll want to adjust the tramming/column alignment to insure the cutter is true to the table.
Tramming the X2 with Spindle/Column Alignment
http://www.hossmachine.info/Shop_Info.html#tramming
Finally check that the X and Y axis are square.
Clamp a known square part such as a 123 block on the table aligning the left side with the Y axis
using an indicator. Snug down the 123 block and move the indicator to the front of the block.'
Run the X axis along the face and if you have no movement of the needle, all is well.
Any deflection from one end to the other indicates that the axis' are not square. If you are lucky,
you may find some flash on the end of one of the dovetails that can be removed with a fine file or sanding.
A severe out of square condition may require having the dovetails remachined or replacing
the saddle.
Out of square can be compensated for in the Mach 3 software under Formulas, but it's not ideal for long term.

If you're using the machine under CNC, perform the same procedures as above.
Then you'll want to setup the motor tuning.
http://www.hossmachine.info/cnc_conversion.html#Testing
Next is to check for backlash in the system.
Verifying Mach 3 Backlash Comp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buXHZ_McbOY
Once that is taken care of, run the Axis Calibration for Mach 3 to make sure that Mach 3
is physically moving each axis the exact distance it is supposed to be moving.
Improved Mach 3 Axis Calibration
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkO5tc-jSxw

You are now ready to put the machine though it's paces. This testing is important to get the
knowledge of what your machine is capable of for when it comes time to tell the CAM software
what cutters, RPM's, feedrates, DOC's (Depths of Cut) etc. to use. get some stock similar to what
you plan on using commonly and practice, practice, practice.
Try starting with a 3/8 endmill and make many passes using different rpms, feedrates and DOC's.
I made several videos doing just this, starting slow and building up speed and DOC each pass
until the mill said NO MORE. This gave me the maximum rates at which it can run, but I generally
run at less than half those rates to be comfortable.
Feedrate tests
http://www.hossmachine.info/Videos4.html#videos23&24
Speed and Feed charts and Calculators are valuable tools to get into the ballpark for setting
the machining rates. Most are created with professional equipment in mind, so hobby machines
need to use the lighter slower side of the scale.
http://www.hossmachine.info/Shop_Info.html#speed%20feed%20charts

http://www.hossmachine.info/Shop_Info.html#mill%20speed%20feed
A good starting point is a chip load of .001 when using the calculator.
Most machines can handle a bit more, I hit .0075 in some of the tests. Too light a chip load
will cause too much chatter (squealing noise) and a poor finish. Using a cutting fluid such as
oil, silicon or water based will improve the machinability and surface finish.
Mach 3 contains many wizards that you can use to practice cutting parts also that will generate
g-code programs. This can help you see what each line of code is doing to the part.
It also gives you an incite into CAM software because you input the machining data in a similar way
and the program outputs your toolpath g-code.
Newfangled Solutions wizards aren't free but you can see on their website what some typically look like.
http://www.newfangledsolutions.com/addons.php
To get more out of Mach 3 or to just learn the basics, they have many tutorial videos to help you along.
http://www.machsupport.com/videos/
Told there was a lot to learn, but be patient, it'll only SEEM like a lifetime.
It may take weeks or months, but things will start clicking. Before you know it,
you'll be designing your own part, creating the toolpath, loading the program, setting up the machine and pressing START. Magic.
Hoss

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Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here.-Roy Batty