So here is what I have:
Keling #8 CNC 4 Axis Kit
4 KL-4030 Stepper Controllers
4 KL23H286-20-8B 425oz Motors
1 C-10 Breakout Board
1 36V/8.8A Power Supply
C6 - Variable Speed Control Board
4 conductor 22AWG Shielded motor wire
6 Grounded body CB connectors
12x12x6 PVC Home Depot Enclosure
4 12v PC case fans
1 Solid State relay board (Custom)
1 contact closure to Keyboard device
X2 Mini-mill
CNC Fusion 3 Axis Ball screw conversion kit
The Plan:
My intention is to build a fully enclosed mill station with the ability to expand to a fully "Hossed" X2. I will be drafting and constructing a wheeled enclosure that will house the mill, controller, flood tank, and drive computer out of 1/2 inch ply. My goal is the enclosure be able to be wheeled through a standard front door in case I need to move it through something other than my garage door. I will be drawing up the enclosure in sketch-up and sharing it with everyone for input once I get the controller finished up. And that is where I could use some help at the moment.
I am running into some questions about how to properly wire up the C-10 to the KL-4030's and the motors. So the suggested diagram that I found here:
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-4030Wiring.pdf It suggests using the +5V off the separate power supply rather than from the C10 board. Is there a reason for this, or is it acceptable to pull the +5V from between "pin" 2 and 3 for the X axis? Or do I need to stick to the suggested wiring.
Second, I plan to use a e-stop button wired to the ENG/Enable pin on the power header using the E-Stop button found in the following link. Any reason that would not work?
http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCPackage.htmlFor the 4 axis drivers, I will use X, Y, Z, A (2-9) as suggested in the diagram. Pin 12 for Limit, Pin 13 for Home (All axis on same pin), and Pin 10 for probe. For all of these pins, the instructions are not clear if I should have the pins set for pull up or down. Clearly, I want to use pins 2-9 for output... :)
For the C6 board, can I use 17, GND and 16 for the control pins?
Pin 14 will be used for Flood coolant
Pin 1 will be used for air burst (later for the ATC)
Finally, the motor DIP setting on the 4030's is not suggested. The diagram shows the motors wired in Parallel, and the colors match the data sheet for the motors found here:
http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H286-20-8B.pdfBecause the motor specs say in parallel, the current should be 2.8A, it appears that I should set the limit to 2.7A as the next step is 3A. Also, I plan to run the motors in full step mode. In half step mode I drop to 70% torque, but I am not sure if the increase in accuracy is worth the loss of power. I think Hoss runs mostly at 1/2 step, but I don't know what torque motors he runs.
Another questions is about grounding the shielded wire for the motors, stop switches and probe wire. Am using the 4 pin "CB" style metal connectors, this allows me to ground the shield to the connector. I plan to have the connectors all come out of the PVC box through an aluminum plate that is grounded to the 36V power supply, that is in turn grounded to the wall. This should allow all the noise/RF picked up by the motor wires, limit/home switches and probe wire to be grounded out.
Two cooling fans will pull air out the top of the case, and the other two will pull air into it. I also have some very cool contact closure to key stroke. Now the really cool thing about this gizmo is that it is NOT USB.. This means that it connects to the PS2 style plugs and won't crap our when your USB driver eats it because windows is evil. I have about 15 of these things from my arcade days (along with a ton of buttons and switches), and Hoss, if you want one I am happy to send you one to tinker with. They are very stable and reliable.
Am I missing anything here?
John
